“A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.” --Sir Hardy Amies

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Silk Knits


Silk knit ties have made a comeback in menswear recently, but still aren't really thought of as serious business attire. While a square-end silk knit tie won't ever be as dressy or proper as a classically shaped woven or printed silk tie, silk knits definitely have a place in the upscale business casual wardrobe.

 
 
The primary reason why recent silk knits haven't seemed business appropriate for young professionals is because they've been marketed as retro trendy by many large retailers, and have been re-introduced in a overly-slim trendy two inch width. For instance, take a look at J. Crew's and Polo's recent silk knit offerings. Most men wouldn't find such a slim tie to be serious enough for the office, especially if they're not waif thin, and I wouldn't blame them. I wouldn't want the attention of "whoa, Mr. Skinny Tie, so hip." It might sound like a compliment, but it's not the kind to get at the office.

Silk knit ties in more traditional widths, though, serve a useful function in the business casual wardrobe—a function that's often hard to come by. Silk knits add completeness and sophistication to your outfit by virtue of being neckties, but aren't too serious for everyday wear. They're out of the ordinary, but in a good way, not strange—everyone's seen a knit tie before, just not all the time. So they give you some personality, but not too much. And they come in a variety of colors, typically solids, so they're easy to coordinate with any outfit—especially patterned sport coats. They also add some nice texture. So all in all, silk knits really help get an outfit into that sweet spot in between too dressy and sloppy, and matchy-matchy and clashy-clashy.


Silk knits can almost only be tied properly with a four in hand—most other knots will just be too big and unwieldy. They also travel well because they're hardy—they can't be creased or crinkled, so just roll them up and put them in your bag. I prefer silk knits that have a tight, crunchy weave—they usually have a bit more texture and luster, and really pop.  Although flat weave silk knits, like in the first image, look very elegant. The looser the weave the more informal the knit, in my view, and the color doesn't seem a vivid either. Silk knit weaves will get looser over time, from gravity, and for that reason often come shorter than standard tie length to accommodate some stretch over time.

Here are a few examples of the various silk knits I've found, and it's obvious that there's a large variety of textures out there. All of these are in between 2.5" and 3" in width.



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