Davide and Goliath

I believe every young professional should get on familiar terms with at least one good, small, local haberdasher.  A relationship with a nice men's shop means a place to go for just about everything--not just clothes.  It's a retreat once in a while when life gets hectic--a good haberdasher should never give the hard sell.  And since the proprietor should certainly be older than you, and have fitted the movers and shakers of the community, it's a place to get guidance on what's appropriate behavior in a particular situation and how to carry oneself as a man.  Picking up some great duds is just part of the deal.

Unfortunately small men's shops have fallen by the wayside in favor of large department stores and self-branded boutiques.  I don't think it's impossible to find this kind of relationship at a department store or boutique, especially an older established department store or a good Brooks Brothers, but it's certainly less likely.  For all of these reasons, I love to find independent men's stores and speak to the owners or managers.  The least I can do is give everyone a head's up when I discover one worth visiting.



Most recently I discovered Davide Cenci in New York, the American outpost of a venerable men's shop in Rome, and had a wonderful experience.  Their door is just a few blocks down from Ralph Lauren's mansion, which offers similar goods and more selection, but the shopping experiences were quite different.  I think Davide Cenci's aesthetic, selection of accessories, and strong range of tailored clothing options is fantastic--but it was topped by the service and expertise of their staff.

I spent some time speaking with Georgio about the history of his shop and the makers of his goods, and never felt out of place, like I being sold, or hurried out the door, despite being clearly a bit younger than their typical client and obviously not in the market for a new suit.  I was also not the only customer in the store.  Georgio understood the importance of cultivating me as a customer as my career progresses--and I of course signed up for the mailing list.  It's a small shop--shirts and accessories on the first floor, tailored clothing on the second.

Here's some shots I took of their front window--the Italians seem to have mastered casual elegance and summer materials--and one of their tie racks.

Davide Cenci has a great selection of ready to wear suits, sport coats, and trousers, from Italian makers at three different price points.  Their entry level is Cantarelli, mid level is Belvest, and top of the line is Sant Andrea (aka St. Andrews).  Made to measure is also an option, and many swatches are on hand.  I confess that I did not confirm which of these lines they offer for made to measure.

They have a selection of unique ties sourced from the same silk maker who works with Brioni, and have in store a mix of patterns--stripes, dots, and whimsical prints--sufficient to outfit any occasion.  I was particularly impressed with their silk knit ties, the length of which runs subtly from a lighter to a darker shade of their particular color.  Very cool, yet wearable.

They also offer an ample selection of shirts, ready to wear and made to measure, Italian-made shoes, outerwear, and also a fabulous selection of dress socks.  All from excellent makers.  I did walk away with a couple of pairs socks--and Giorgio was nice enough to fill me in on their private sale going on too.  I will certainly be going back when I'm in the market for some new duds, and probably even when I'm not, just to say hello.

M.M.C.